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NY Times ... Best Friends. Only One Ticket to the Olympics. The Tokyo Games have been put off, but the battle to get there created an unusual rivalry in an event that has never been in the Olympics before.

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Ari Schneider:  Mia Krampl, a professional rock climber from Slovenia, was in tears when she stepped onto the podium in third place at an Olympic qualifying competition in Toulouse, France, in December.

The result qualified Krampl for the Tokyo Games, where climbing will make its debut as an Olympic sport next year, at the recently delayed Summer Games. But she wasn’t crying tears of joy. She was heartbroken. The moment Krampl punched her ticket to the Olympics, she deprived her best friend of the same dream.

With several new sports set to debut in Tokyo, athletes who never factored the Olympic Games into their career plans were suddenly experiencing the pull of the rings and the heartbreak that comes with missing the team, all of which runners and swimmers and gymnasts and table tennis players have experienced for decades. In surfing, the competition for America’s Olympic berths pitted a legend against his protégé. In rock climbing, two best friends from a former Yugoslav republic dueled in a way they never thought they would.

Slovenia, a nation of two million people in the Balkan Peninsula, has produced some of the world’s best competitive climbers, including Janja Garnbret, the top-ranked woman last year on the sport’s World Cup circuit.

nytimes: Published May 14, 2020 Updated April 30, 2021

The debut of rock climbing at the Tokyo Olympics created an awkward dynamic for two friends: Lucka Rakovec, left, and Mia Krampl.Credit...Ciril Jazbec for The New York Times

 

 

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