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Zasnežena narava, 29. 1. 2018, Avtor: Boris Štupar

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Branko Ivanek 2592 0

Spletna stran revije Climbing

Vstopno spletno stran revije Climbing krasi fotografija B. Strmška, ki prikazuje Marka Lukića in Andreja Grmovška med plezanjem v Smeri Norčkov.
Na spletu je tudi kratko poročilo "Neverjetno leto za Slovenca" opremljeno s še dvema fotografijama.

By Dougald MacDonald

Amazing Year for Slovenians



Marko Lukic drilling ground-up and falling down on Last Minute.

Slovenians Marko Lukic and Andrej Grmovsek pushed free-climbing standards across the Alps last season, with a remarkable string of high-level multipitch climbs. Lukic began with a redpoint of Spider, a 10-pitch route with three pitches of 5.13 and four pitches of 5.12 on the walls of Paklenica, Croatia. In the Julian Alps of Slovenia, Lukic redpointed the old aid route Smer Nocev (“Route of Fools”), creating the first 5.13b alpine route in the range without adding bolts or pitons. On the overhanging alpine wall of Vezica, the two climbers then equipped Last Minute from the ground up and redpointed the hardest rock route in the Slovenian Alps, with three pitches of 5.13 (up to 5.13c).

In the Dolomites, Lukic and Grmovsek onsighted Specchio di Sarah (5.12d, 450 meters) on the Marmolada and redpointed Das Phantom der Zinne (5.13a, 550 meters) on Cima Grande and Akut (5.13b, 550 meters) on Cima Ovest. Moving to the Mont Blanc area, Lukic onsighted The Untouchables (5.13a, 250 meters) on Trident du Tacul. A week later, after some bad weather, the two returned to onsight Divine Providence (5.12d, 900 meters) on the Grand Pilier d’Angle of Mont Blanc over two days in wet conditions. Lukic commented that several of these climbs seemed to be over-graded, likely because of their alpine position and often-wet rock.

Lukic wasn’t done yet. Shortly after Bubu Bole made the first free ascent of the Camillotto-Pellesier Route on Cima Ovest in the Dolomites, Lukic redpointed the 10-pitch 5.13d on his second day of effort.

Weekend warriors take note: Lukic works full-time and did most of these routes during weekend raids from his home in Slovenia!

Sources: Marko Prezelj and Marko Lukic.

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