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Mt Hood Condition Report 02/23/24

DKH & Elliot Headwall by Matt Zavortink and Zach Kramer.

Mt Hood Condition Report 02/23/24

Devil's Kitchen Headwall: The route is in and icy. There's a lot of snow on the upper mountain and the area between the first ice step and the crux has become a sloggy snow ramp. The crux is in slightly easier, lower-angle condition than is typical. The ice steps do take ice screws though their solidity is difficult to assess as always due to the mixture of rime and more solid ice. Interestingly the large rime fin that consistently forms above the crux is just a few inches away from forming a completely enclosed tunnel. Unfortunately the slope approaching the route remains somewhat hazardous with areas that have been melted and hollowed out by a fumarole, providing multiple opportunities to punch through the snow all the way to the ground. Most of these spots are shallow and inconsequential though we did observe one boot print that broke through into a deep scary hole.

Eliot Headwall: The routes in the Eliot Cirque appear to be mostly formed, though there are pockets of the white, aerated, unprotectable snice that has been prevalent on the mountain's more technical routes this season, so it is difficult to assess them from afar. We climbed the right side of the Eliot Headwall. The large amount of snow on the upper mountain has almost entirely buried the lower and middle pitches so there is currently a high slogging to climbing ratio. The longer variations farther left may provide better ice climbing in the current conditions. We climbed the McJury-Leuthold exit through the upper rock band. This area changed dramatically between Spring 2021 and Winter 2022 when a bus-sized rock dislodged and now contains one of the more interesting pitches of ice climbing on the upper mountain. The Wallace-Olson exit is likely in as well (climbed by multiple parties in November) though we did not get a direct look at it.
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