Some of the routes the Yugoslavs climbed (among thew a few first ascents) are very difficult and interesting. The most important routes they climbed are:
- The Free Korea Peak, the first repeat of Henry Barber's route from 1976, 900 m, ice and combined route, by Edo Kozorog - Ivan Kotnik - Vid
Preložnik.
- The Free Korea Peak, the right pillar, V, 850 m combined route, 10 hours, by Marija and Slavko Frantar, and by Matej Banič - Aco Pepevnik.
- The Free Korea Peak, Lowe's coloir, 850 m, ice route, by Pepevnik, solo in 3 hours, and by Marija and Slavko Frantar in 5 hours together.
- The Free Korea Peak, a new route right from Lowe's coloir, 800 m, ice route, by Cene Berčič - Edo Kozorog - Ivan Rejc.
- Baljan Bashi, the left pillar, 700 m, 9 hours, ice and combined route,
VI/IV+, very bad rock, by Marija and Slavko Frantar.
- The Korona Peak, the sixth spike, the pillar, 800 m, VI, rock route (very
bad conditions), by Kotnik and Preložnik.
- Boks, a new route, 750 m, rock, 18 hours, VI, A2/V+, IV, by : Kozorog and Rejc.
- Bajchechekej, the third pillar, VI, 500 m, rock route, by Kotnik - Preložnik
and by Banič - Pepevnik - Bojan Pollak.
They also accomplished climbed new routes in Bajchechekej (the
left coloir, 400 m, 80/50-65 degrees, by Pollak and Berčič), Ak Too, two coloirs (both 600 m, about 75 and 65 degrees, by Kozorog and Rejc, and by Banič - Pepevnik - Pollak) and in the Peak of Simon Tienshansky 2 routes (both about IV/40-70 degrees, 900 m), one by Marija and Slavko Frantar, and the other by Pollak - Pepevnik.
Leader
Marija Frantar *
Vižmarska 16
YU 61210 ŠENTVID
|